When I did my first ever Himalayan Trek in Alpine style in 2018, I decided to do at least one Himalayan Trek in a year. Somehow, missed venturing into the wilderness during 2019, everyone was aware of a devesting covid era in the years 2020 and 2021.
In 2022, I was eagerly waiting to hear from our team at Chennai Trekking Club (CTC) about the Himalayan plans once winter near mountain ranges get pass through.
Initially, my plan was to gear up for any trek that I would come through, but when I heard from Magesh Manivanan, that he has a team that was ready to go to Kalindi Kal, I was excited. I came to know that it is a difficult trek and have to get Permits from Govt. of Uttarakhand after submitting Medical Reports, Fitness regimes, and Insurance Coverage, and the group must be accompanied by local guides and porters, where costly affairs are in place. You get the unfair figure of damages to your pocket!
Thanks to Technoidentity for coming forward to sponsor part of the expenses incurred for the Expedition.
When things were getting materialized and final dates announced, I realized to dedicate time to some serious training. As I had only a few days left, I had decided to climb office stairs whenever possible till the day our trek journey began. I had to make a bold commitment not to use elevators and believe me, this turned advantageous during the trek.
August 26th, 2022 was the day we began our journey to board the Telangana express train at 6 am Our team of 7 trekkers started at the same time from Chennai to Hazrath Nizamuddin. Chennai Teams ( I reached Delhi on time) Our chances to catch the train to Dehradun seemed impossible on August 27th. So we decided to catch the same train from Ghaziabad. Thanks to the Indian Super-fast Express train Duranto that dropped us at the station just a few minutes before the arrival of the train which was backed by numerous calls enquiring about the status of the train.
By the time we reached the station and chased the train to Dehradun, the team looked exhausted without the food on the train. After stepping down the foot at Dehradun, we searched Tempo traveler to board the next road journey from Gangotri via Uttarkashi at around 9.15 pm.
The first jolt was here when the bus driver was narrating the situation of a foreign trekker who lost his way back from Tapovan. A local villager found him unconscious and suggested to start his journey the next dawn. Magesh was expecting scenarios faced by the frightening trekkers, especially the ones who raise their flags from southern India.
28th August 2022 – Gangotri (at 11,098 ft.)
Just before dawn, we reached Gangothri – the origin of River Ganga where we met a few porters and a fellow trekker from Kolkata along with their equipment from Uttarkashi.
All of us were settled in the river view room at the tip of the river Ganges by our guide Mr. Ganga Vishnu Rawat to acclimatize to the gained elevation, our exploration continued to Pandeva Gufa which is 2.5 km away from the hotel. Finally, we settled in the warm room that night and were very excited and enthusiastic to go with the next.
29th August 2022 – Gangotri to Bojbasa (at 12,467 ft.)
We made our pathways and crossed the steel bridge that takes us to the other side of the river. We are all set to start our trek. Bags were on our shoulders. 2.5km passed where a Kanku forest checkpoint gates were seen. We all summed up and gave the requested details to the officers. En route to Bojbasa, we got some rest and food at Chirbasa at around 2.30 p.m. Next, the trek continued to Bojbasa by 5 pm and rested in a tomb. Witnessing Indo Tibet border, police officers were moving, porters were busy unpacking their backpacks, the kitchen was set up, and yummy food was on our plates.
30thAugust 2022 – Bojbasa to Gaumukh (at 12,795 ft.)
Bed tea was offered by the support teams and sleep cycles were disturbed as cold air continued to blow through the broken window glass. My body couldn’t take a severe cold but still, I managed to dress up. Breakfast was served and lunch was being packed, our trek commenced.
With the support of a self-pulling rope, we crossed the high current streaming river. 9 trekkers and 10 persons from the support team along with food supplies, tents, and backpacks were pulled.
The tough and strong nature within us made us continue towards Gaumukh right from 12 noon. There was a small river gush which we made through to reach Gaumukh where the support team offered salutations to god in their own ways. “Gau” refers to cow and “mukh” refers to the mouth, the ancient sages named it Gaumukh means Cow’s mouth. Our first thought was to camp at Nandanvan rather than Gaumukh after skipping Tapovan.
After crossing the Gaumukh, we walked a few kilometers steering left.
Here came another breath-grasping moment for all; numerous layers of rocky Moraine on the glaciers appeared slippery. It seemed to be a slight lack of focus or concentration that would put our lives in danger as huge crevasses gaped everywhere. I have taken a step back after seeing the rough and scary route. A great cheers to my team as we made a decision to keep moving forward by camping on the rocks formed on the glaciers.
A lot of leadership qualities have been showcased by Mr. Magesh Manivanan. He spoke to each one of us and triggered the spirits by saying- “it’s a lifetime trek experience.” After listening to him, we were much more comfortable to keep moving further.
31st August – Gaumukh to Nandanvan (at 14,27 5 ft.)
Last night was so pathetic and everyone realized that it is not going to be so easy. Our guide was able to pass through the scary route as it was over rough glaciers, rocky screens, and crevassed screw fields. Soon after clearing this patch, a 70-degree vertical ascent covered with big rocks was the big wave. Though we have enough grip for feet, most of the route was deceptive too.
The ascent climb took more than 2 hours and the team was very tired Nandanvan being our relaxation point. Our setup camp unfolded the highest and most majestic peak views of the Himalayan range like Shivling at 6,343 mt., Meru at 6,630 mt., Kedar dome at 6,808 mt., and Bhagirath group at 6,856 mt.
1st September – Nandanvan to Vasuki Tal (at 16,269 ft.)
After capturing the beauty of Nandanvan and enough rest, our trek began at 8 am.
On the left was a deep valley with a large number of snowfields and on the right, a valley with a number of big rock slides. We were on a narrow ridge passing through this marvelous yet dangerous pathway.
A 6km walk on the ridge continued until we reached Chaturangi glaciers where we moved towards left. Reaching Vasuki Tal made our hearts shake up and down and we could hear our own heartbeats for a while because there was another vertical hill with slippery mud that was accompanied by powerful winds. Everyone began to feel imbalance as the winds pushed us down. After a certain distance, a rocky patch on the hill was claimed with the help of rope – exciting and scary at the same time.
It’s a base for Mount Satopanth standing at 7000 mts and Vasuki Prabath at 6720 mts with a small lake beside. And this is Vasuki Tal. Though the trek was scary as we were moving, dinner times and time we spent together in the tents turned out to be memorable.
2nd September – Vasuki Tal to Khara Pathar (at 17,060 ft.)
A 6-hour mighty trek was in front of us today. A view of Mt. Satopanth turned the whole experience worthwhile as it is one of the only 7000+ meter peaks in India. Again we were passed through the ridge with either side covered with the mighty melting glaciers and huge rocks.
2nd September – Khara Pathar to Swetha Glacier (at 17,384 ft.)
Elevations gained. The team was getting exhausted day after day. Medications were given to a few under the guidance of experienced and professional trekkers. And a big thanks to these people as they were helpful to celebrate victory at the summit. Here we have seen the view of Khalindi base camp – Khalindi pass and an Avalanche peak to its adjacent. Our path was clear to cross and we dropped our bags and relaxed for a while after reaching Swetha glacier at around 3 pm.
3rd September – Swetha Glacier to Kalindi Base Camp (at 18,368 ft.)
Another clear morning appeared as it was neither rain nor snowfall. We were expecting a huge and difficult path to cross with most of the time spent walking on glaciers and moraines. On our right was a small glacier that leads to nowhere and our left led to behind Chaturangi – 4 which was also a dead end. And before the dead end, there came the Khalindi base. Yet, the approach couldn’t be seen as it existed in the midst of Avalanch Peak and Khalindi Rock.
Avalanch Peak was covered with a thick layer of snow and the latter was barren. And our camp was at the base of these two. Just like the Swetha glacier, this camp was also on the top of Moraines.
The camp is known for Avalanches. However, our tent was a little away from the base of Khalindi and Avalanch and did not seem to be a rise. We could see the path that we will be taking tomorrow.
3rd September – Kalindi Base Camp to Raj Parav (16,076 ft.) Via Kalindi Pass (at 19,598 ft.)
Today is D-Day for everyone on the team. Our initial plan was to wake up at 3 am and continue through the pass and because of the unexpected mild snowfall between 3 am and 5 am, we started at 6 am. The climb was not an easy go. A continuous pace is required until we reach the pass. Reaching the pass, the support team again performed a few salutations and prayers at the top of the summit. The team danced to the Nepali tunes whispered by the support team and some chill Tamil rock songs.
We realized that all the toll, hanging, and hard work seemed to be worth it. Every second we spent gave us the most thrilling experience that we could experience ever before. There were eye-thrilling and spectacular views of Mt. Kamet, Mt. Mana, Chandra Parbat, Vasuki Parbat, and the Tibetian Plateau as well.
Only an avid hiker would understand that the best hikes are extreme hikes. It can get pretty hard at times, and you will feel like giving up somewhere in the middle of the expedition. But the most rewarding views come after the toughest hike. It will get your blood pumping and fixes your adrenaline level.
Once we crossed the Pass, we encountered a lot of steep descent. At a few places, we climbed down with the help of ropes.
4h September – Raj Parav to Gastoli (at 12,467 ft.)
After a long walk through the moraines, we reached Gastoli. On the way, there was a terrain changing dramatically from grey to green, crossing around 8 streams. At the sight of Gastoli Army camp, we felt like we came back to life after 9 days of extremely hard paths, weak moments, exciting adventures, sicking thoughts, and whatnot!
My perspective on life has changed. The way I think, move, and the walk was completely different after such a huge trekking experience. My beloved thanks to my team and guides and also Technoidentity for their massive support and encouragement. The company has given me the flexibility to bag a lifetime achievement as a hiker and a lifetime memory that I could cherish. Being resilient towards nature when you’re crossing and moving such a massive summit, is extremely critical.
I embrace myself for doing such a massive trek after all these years!
